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Tempelhofer Feld: a day on Berlin’s old runways

Walk or cycle across Tempelhofer Feld with the right entrance, a manageable route and room for Berlin’s biggest skies.

Open space at Tempelhofer Feld, the former airfield in Berlin.
Open space at Tempelhofer Feld, the former airfield in Berlin. Photo credit

Tempelhofer Feld is the Berlin outing for a day when you want more horizon than itinerary. The former airfield feels different from a landscaped city park: long stretches of tarmac, open grass and a scale that makes the skyline look distant. You do not need to complete a circuit. A satisfying visit can be one runway section, a picnic and a return through a different gate.

Open space at Tempelhofer Feld, the former airfield in Berlin.
Open space at Tempelhofer Feld, the former airfield in Berlin. Photo credit

Choose an entrance that matches your afternoon

The official visitor information lists access from Tempelhofer Damm in the west, Columbiadamm in the north and Oderstraße in the east. Tempelhof station is useful for the western side; Leinestraße or Boddinstraße can suit the eastern entrances. Look at the park map before travelling, since “Tempelhofer Feld” is a large destination rather than one single front door.

If you want cafés afterwards, an eastern exit gives a different continuation from returning to Tempelhofer Damm. Decide this before walking deep into the field. The route to the gate, not the apparent closeness of a distant building, determines how quickly you can leave. Families and anyone with limited walking energy should pick a clear turnaround point early.

Three ways to use the space

  1. A short walk: enter, follow a paved section, stop to look back at the old airport building, then return before the distance becomes a chore.
  2. A cycling session: use the paved areas, watch for skaters and walkers, and make your first stretch a gentle orientation lap rather than a fast sprint.
  3. A picnic afternoon: buy provisions before arrival, carry water and choose a permitted place without trampling protected areas.

Admission to the field is free, but the gates have seasonal opening hours. The operator also sets rules for dogs, barbecues and nature protection. Read the current notices on site. Barbecuing is restricted to designated areas and can be affected by additional fire restrictions; bringing a disposable grill is not a substitute for checking what is allowed.

The summer flower garden and Schalenbrunnen in Berlin’s Großer Tiergarten.
The summer flower garden and Schalenbrunnen in Berlin’s Großer Tiergarten. Photo credit

Pack for exposure, not just the temperature

Shade and shelter are not evenly spread across the airfield. On a sunny day bring sun protection and enough water; on a breezy day an extra layer matters even if central streets felt warm. In wet weather, shorten the plan. A long exposed runway is less forgiving than the tree-lined paths in our Tiergarten and Spree walk.

Keep the field as the main outdoor activity rather than adding it after every other Berlin sight. Our three-day itinerary leaves room for exactly this kind of slower block. If you are continuing to the canal, use the Kreuzberg guide to choose a compact next section and check the connection with our public transport guide.

Two questions before you go

Can I ride a bicycle on the runways?

The operator permits cycling and skating on paved areas. The space is shared, so reduce speed around children and people crossing. A bike does not give access to fenced conservation zones or permit riding anywhere across the grass.

Can I stay until late at night?

Plan around the published seasonal closing time, not sunset alone or another visitor’s old account. Check the gate notice on arrival and begin the return early. Knowing which exit you need is especially useful when the light starts to fade.